January 1, 2018

We arrive in Sofia at 11 pm, after fourteen hours spent on a train from Bucharest. It’s New Year’s Day and, unlike every other year, not only are we hungry: we are starving! Trains here, indeed, don't serve food on board and naively we brought nothing to eat for the whole journey. We leave the station almost resigned to this forced fasting, when, after a few minutes of walking, a mirage appears to our incredulous eyes. Hidden behind a steamy window is a fluorescent-lit restaurant that we would carefully avoid in normal circumstances. However, since it most likely is the only open one at the moment, we reluctantly decide to give it a go. I'm not sure if it was because of the hunger, but the food, displayed in quite uninviting trays, was surprisingly tasty! And after having refueled ourselves with way too many stuffed peppers and bulgur, we're finally happy to go to sleep wondering what the next days will bring.

January 2, 2018

Our exploration of Bulgaria starts with its lively capital Sofia and with the most typical breakfast: a mouth-watering deep-fried kneaded dough made with yogurt and garnished with jam, honey, chocolate or cheese, called mekitsa. Definitely not the lightest of breakfasts but surely worth trying at the lovely Mekitsa & Kafe, especially when you can later burn the calories with a pleasant walk in the city center.

Sofia is an intriguing place to discover, remarkably layered as a result of a lengthy and tumultuous history. First inhabited by the Thracians as early as 7000 years ago, the city was conquered by the Romans and later became part of the Byzantine Empire. In the 9th century, then, it was annexed to the first Kingdom of Bulgaria, until in 1382 it fell under the Ottoman control, which lasted for almost 500 years. Russian forces, at last, managed to push the Ottomans away and made Sofia the current capital of Bulgaria.

Because of all these different rules, it comes with no surprise that the city features buildings of various foundations. For instance, right in its heart lies the ancient Roman city of Serdica, or what remains of it, a short distance away spires the minaret of Banya Bashi Mosque and in the opposite direction looms the monumental architectural complex The Largo, once home to the communist party. St. George’s Church, allegedly the oldest building in town, is a reminder of the time when Sofia was the residence of the emperors Galerius and Constantine the Great. Instead, the gold-plated St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was built in 1882 to honor the Russian soldiers who died fighting the Ottomans. Worth seeing are also the Central Baths in neo-byzantine style, with their hot mineral water fountain, the National Theatre with the city garden, Sveta Nedelya Church, and the Russian Church.

Besides its monuments, though, what certainly impresses of Sofia is the incredible amount of cool bars and restaurants. Among them are, for example, Made in Blue, an old abandoned house, now restored and fully painted in blue, with eclectic interiors and perfect for a quick bite or a drink; Lavanda, a restaurant in a flat; the Little Things with its extraordinarily cozy atmosphere, the vegetarians' heaven Sun Moon, and Bagri, a more sophisticated slow-food restaurant. If instead, you’re looking for traditional food and ambiance, Hadjidraganov's Cellars is just the place: furnished with barrels and old Bulgarian garbs, this restaurant serves huge portions of popular dishes to the strains of live folklore music. Make sure to book in advance (and to be very hungry).

January 3, 2018

On our second day in Bulgaria we wake up early and, collected our rental car at the airport, we start driving through forested hills, in a scenery made even more evocative by the snowflakes that are beginning to fall. We are heading towards Koprivshtitsa, one of the most characteristic Bulgarian towns located about two hours away from Sofia. Huddled among the Sredna Gora Mountains, Koprivshtitsa still preserves the atmosphere of the National Revival period of the 19th century. Home to writers, poets, and revolutionaries, whose houses, now restored to their original appearance, serve as memorials and museums, the now sleepy town was once central to Bulgarian history, as it was here where the first shot of the April Uprising against the Ottoman domination was fired in 1876.

The next stop is Plovdiv, the second-largest city of Bulgaria, which, like Sofia, has a millenary history: originally a Thracian settlement, it was subsequently invaded by Persians, Greeks, Celts, Romans, Goths, Huns, Bulgars, Slavs, Rus’ people, Crusaders, and Turks. And again, like Sofia, all these different populations inevitably left their marks all over the city. Plovdiv, indeed, boasts a great archaeological heritage, with two ancient Roman theatres, remains of the medieval walls and towers, Ottoman baths and mosques, and a well-preserved old quarter from the National Revival period.

I especially relished wandering within its old quarter, getting lost amid its elegant picturesque houses and narrow paved streets, and browsing into the countless antique shops. It truly seemed like a jump back to the 19th century, particularly as we stayed overnight at Hotel Evmolpia, decorated in a faithful representation of the National Revival period. Still, Plovdiv also possesses another face, that one of a modern and buzzing city, which can be experienced at its best in the artistic quarter of Kapana. With several pubs and restaurants and quite a hipster vibe, it is in Kapana where we spend our evening, tasting delicious and well-presented dishes at Smokini and sampling local craft beers at Kotka i Mishka.

January 4, 2018

Plovdiv definitely was a highlight of the trip and it probably should have required a longer stay but there was one last place that we couldn't miss before leaving Bulgaria. Although quite touristy, being probably one of the most visited sights of the country also for pilgrimage, Rila Monastery cannot but be the focus of our final day in Bulgaria.

We arrive there from Plovdiv by car in about three hours. Part of the journey is in the lush Rila Mountains, whose exceptional charm is also fed by legends. Among the others, are the stories about Saint Ivan Rilski, who spent years as a hermit praying and fasting precisely in these mountains before establishing the Monastery that still houses around 60 monks, and becoming one of the most honored Bulgarian saints. Despite its long history, though, most of what we can see of the Monastery today dates back only to the 19th century, when it was rebuilt after a fire. But there's no need to feel sorry as, designed by the famous architect Alexi Rilets, the beautiful four-story complex is regarded as one of the foremost masterpieces of Bulgarian National Revival architecture.

After admiring the sublimely painted arches and domes, we have to hit the road again for the last stop just before dropping off the car. In the outskirts of Sofia at the foothills of Mount Vitosha, indeed, is Boyana Church, added to the UNESCO World Heritage List for its beautiful frescos. Portraying a great number of human images, these frescos are exceptionally striking for the naturalness of the faces depicted and because they date back to before the Italian Reinassance.

Sadly our travel to Bulgaria is coming to an end. With its enticing blend of historical sight and magnificent scenes, and surely thanks to its friendly and kindhearted people, this country left me with such a positive impression that I will definitely consider exploring it further at the earliest opportunity.