berat, albania
The town of a thousand windows
Hidden in the heart of Albania, Berat owes its appellation of "town of a thousand windows" to the typical white-washed Ottoman houses that cling to the hills at the sides of the river Osum. Distinctive large windows adorn each of them, and the feeling is that of being observed by a myriad of silent eyes. But there's more. Besides its scenic architecture, Berat is also a perfect example how different religious and cultural communities can coexist over the centuries, its historic center being a wonderful proof of it.
where to eat
Out of sight in a lovely courtyard behind the owners' house is Lili Home-Made Food, a family-run inn where to savor authentic Albanian dishes. Arranging only five tables, it will feel like dining at locals' home but booking is almost mandatory.
what to do
Berat charming old town consists of three districts: on the castle hill is Kalaja, with its fortress dating back to the 13th century, lower is the Islamic quarter of Mangalem, while opposite, on the other bank of the river, is Gorica, the Christian one. In truth, though, this division is much more geographical than religious, and in the maze of cobbled streets among the beautiful white houses, you'll quickly spot mosques and Orthodox churches next to each other. Although rambling along its narrow and steep alleyways, stumbling into enchanting views, is the best way to explore Berat, there are few sights that cannot be missed. Surely, among these is Berat Castle: the fortress, found on a 214 meters rocky hill, still maintains Roman walls and features the ruins of some of the twenty churches built in the 13th century. Yet what is truly remarkable is that part of the fort is still bustling with inhabited houses, restaurants, hostels, and shops. The Ethnographic Museum should also be seen, if only for the beauty of the building that hosts it. And finally, the Church of St. Mary of Blachernae, the Bachelors' Mosque, the Lead Mosque, and the Halveti Tekke are thoroughly worth a visit.
Hidden in the heart of Albania, Berat owes its appellation of "town of a thousand windows" to the typical white-washed Ottoman houses that cling to the hills at the sides of the river Osum. Distinctive large windows adorn each of them, and the feeling is that of being observed by a myriad of silent eyes. But there's more. Besides its scenic architecture, Berat is also a perfect example how different religious and cultural communities can coexist over the centuries, its historic center being a wonderful proof of it.
what to do
Berat charming old town consists of three districts: on the castle hill is Kalaja, with its fortress dating back to the 13th century, lower is the Islamic quarter of Mangalem, while opposite, on the other bank of the river, is Gorica, the Christian one. In truth, though, this division is much more geographical than religious, and in the maze of cobbled streets among the beautiful white houses, you'll quickly spot mosques and Orthodox churches next to each other. Although rambling along its narrow and steep alleyways, stumbling into enchanting views, is the best way to explore Berat, there are few sights that cannot be missed. Surely, among these is Berat Castle: the fortress, found on a 214 meters rocky hill, still maintains Roman walls and features the ruins of some of the twenty churches built in the 13th century. Yet what is truly remarkable is that part of the fort is still bustling with inhabited houses, restaurants, hostels, and shops. The Ethnographic Museum should also be seen, if only for the beauty of the building that hosts it. And finally, the Church of St. Mary of Blachernae, the Bachelors' Mosque, the Lead Mosque, and the Halveti Tekke are thoroughly worth a visit.
where to eat
Out of sight in a lovely courtyard behind the owners' house is Lili Home-Made Food, a family-run inn where to savor authentic Albanian dishes. Arranging only five tables, it will feel like dining at locals' home but booking is almost mandatory.